🍜Food & Dining

Best Warungs in Ubud: Authentic Balinese Eateries You Must Visit

Discover the best warungs in Ubud, from the legendary babi guling at Ibu Oka to the rice-field views at Warung Tepi Sawah. Authentic Balinese food at local prices in Bali's cultural heart.

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If you want to taste real Balinese cooking -- the kind that has been passed down through generations and perfected over decades -- you need to eat at Ubud's warungs. A warung is a small, family-run eatery that serves home-style food at honest prices. Think of it as the Indonesian equivalent of a French bistro or an Italian trattoria, but far more affordable and deeply rooted in local tradition. Ubud is the spiritual and cultural capital of Bali, and its warung scene reflects that heritage. Here you will find some of the island's most celebrated traditional dishes: babi guling (spit-roasted suckling pig), bebek betutu (slow-cooked spiced duck wrapped in banana leaves), and nasi campur (mixed rice plates with an ever-changing array of side dishes). The cooks at these warungs have often been preparing the same recipes for 20, 30, or even 40 years. This guide covers the must-visit warungs in Ubud, explains what makes each one special, and shares practical tips on warung etiquette, pricing, and how to eat like a local.

What Exactly Is a Warung?

Before diving into specific recommendations, it helps to understand what a warung is and why it matters in Balinese food culture. The word 'warung' broadly refers to any small, locally owned shop or eatery. In the food context, a warung is a casual restaurant -- sometimes just a few tables in someone's front yard, sometimes a more established venue with a proper kitchen and seating area. What distinguishes a warung from a restaurant is its simplicity, family ownership, and focus on affordable, home-style cooking. Most warungs serve a rotating daily menu based on what is fresh at the market that morning. There is no tablecloth service, no sommelier, and no pretense -- just genuine food made with care. Warungs are where Balinese families eat when they do not cook at home, and they are where you will find the most authentic flavors on the island. Prices at warungs reflect local economics, not tourist economics. A full meal including rice, several side dishes, and a drink typically costs IDR 25,000-60,000 ($1.50-3.75 USD). Even Ubud's most famous warungs, which attract international visitors, remain remarkably affordable compared to the restaurant scene. Some warungs operate on a nasi campur (mixed rice) system where you point at the dishes you want and the cook assembles your plate. Others have a written menu. Either way, the experience is casual and welcoming.

  • A warung is a family-run eatery serving home-style food -- think of it as Bali's version of a neighborhood bistro
  • Most warungs display their dishes behind glass -- point at what looks good and the cook builds your plate
  • Warung prices are local prices: expect IDR 25,000-60,000 ($1.50-3.75 USD) for a full meal
  • Operating hours vary, but most lunch-focused warungs open at 10:00 AM and close by 3:00-4:00 PM or when food runs out

Ibu Oka: The Legendary Babi Guling Warung

No list of Ubud warungs can begin without Ibu Oka, the most famous warung in Bali and possibly all of Indonesia. Located on Jalan Suweta, just steps from Ubud Palace, Ibu Oka has been serving babi guling (spit-roasted suckling pig) since the 1970s when the original Ibu Oka herself began cooking pigs for temple ceremonies and village celebrations. Anthony Bourdain's televised visit in 2008 catapulted this humble warung to international fame, and the queues have not subsided since. The star is the babi guling special (IDR 65,000 / $4 USD): a heaping plate of rice topped with crispy pig skin, juicy roasted pork, Balinese sausage (urutan), lawar (spiced vegetable-and-meat salad), and a fiery sambal matah. The pig is rubbed with a spice paste of turmeric, coriander, lemongrass, garlic, and chili, then slow-roasted over a wood fire for hours until the skin shatters at the touch of a fork. There are now three Ibu Oka locations in Ubud. The original on Jalan Suweta (Ibu Oka 1) has the most atmosphere and the longest queues. Ibu Oka 2 and 3 are nearby and serve identical food with shorter waits. All locations open at 11:00 AM and serve until the pig runs out, which is typically by 1:30-2:00 PM. Come early. Note that babi guling is pork and is not halal. This is a Hindu Balinese dish and Ubud has a strong Hindu culinary tradition.

💡 Anthony Bourdain called Ibu Oka's babi guling 'the best pig I have ever had.' Over 50 years later, the recipe has not changed and the queues only grow longer.

  • Arrive before 11:30 AM for the shortest wait -- the lunch rush peaks between noon and 1:00 PM
  • Ibu Oka 2 and 3 serve identical food with shorter queues -- locals often go to these instead
  • Order the 'special' plate for the full experience including skin, sausage, and lawar
  • This is a cash-only establishment -- bring IDR 100,000 per person to be safe

Top Warungs for Traditional Balinese Cuisine

Beyond Ibu Oka, Ubud has a rich ecosystem of warungs specializing in different aspects of Balinese cuisine. Warung Biah Biah on Jalan Suweta is a hidden gem tucked behind the main road, serving traditional Balinese dishes that are hard to find elsewhere. Their bebek betutu (slow-cooked spiced duck, IDR 75,000 / $4.70 USD) is exceptional -- the duck is marinated in bumbu betutu spice paste and wrapped in banana leaves before being slow-cooked for 12 hours. Their nasi campur Bali (IDR 35,000 / $2.20 USD) changes daily and always includes five to six side dishes. Open 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Warung Tepi Sawah (meaning 'warung by the rice field') lives up to its name with an open-air dining area overlooking terraced rice paddies just off Jalan Raya Ubud. The view alone is worth the visit, but the food holds its own: their ayam betutu (slow-cooked chicken, IDR 55,000 / $3.45 USD) and urap (steamed vegetables with spiced coconut, IDR 25,000 / $1.55 USD) are outstanding. Open 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Murni's Warung, perched on the edge of a lush ravine on Jalan Raya Campuhan, has been operating since 1974 and holds the distinction of being Ubud's first restaurant to serve both Balinese and Western food. Today it remains a charming multi-level venue with river valley views and solid Balinese dishes (IDR 45,000-85,000 / $2.80-5.30 USD for mains). Their nasi goreng and black rice pudding are long-standing favorites.

  • Warung Biah Biah's bebek betutu takes 12 hours to prepare -- it often sells out by early afternoon
  • Request a rice-field-facing table at Warung Tepi Sawah for one of Ubud's best dining views
  • Murni's Warung has four levels -- the lowest level closest to the river is the most atmospheric
  • All three warungs accept cash; Murni's also accepts credit cards

Naughty Nuri's and Warung Sopa: The Cult Favorites

Some Ubud warungs have transcended their humble origins to become bona fide cult destinations, drawing visitors who plan their entire Ubud itinerary around a meal. Naughty Nuri's on Jalan Raya Sanggingan started as a tiny roadside warung and became famous for two things: massive, fall-off-the-bone pork spare ribs and dangerously strong martinis. The ribs are marinated in a sweet-savory sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret), slow-grilled over charcoal, and served with rice, coleslaw, and a stack of napkins. A full rack costs IDR 115,000 ($7.20 USD). Their martinis (IDR 65,000 / $4 USD) are poured generously and have a legendary reputation. The atmosphere is lively, social, and unapologetically fun. Open 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM daily. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Warung Sopa on Jalan Sugriwa is Ubud's premier vegetarian warung and a haven for plant-based eaters. Operating since 1998, Sopa serves an entirely meat-free menu inspired by Balinese, Indian, and Mediterranean cuisines. Their vegetarian nasi campur (IDR 45,000 / $2.80 USD) includes tempeh, tofu, vegetable curry, sambal, and steamed greens. The mushroom satay (IDR 40,000 / $2.50 USD) and raw food platters are also excellent. The space is calm, shaded by a large tree, and popular with yoga practitioners from nearby studios. Open 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Both warungs prove that the warung concept is flexible enough to encompass everything from indulgent barbecue to mindful plant-based dining.

💡 Naughty Nuri's ribs and martinis have achieved legendary status among Bali travelers. It is the one warung where the drink is as famous as the food.

  • Naughty Nuri's gets packed at dinner time -- go for a late lunch (2:00-3:00 PM) to skip the crowd
  • Limit yourself to two Naughty Nuri's martinis unless you want a very interesting afternoon
  • Warung Sopa is entirely vegetarian and mostly vegan-friendly -- ask about dairy in specific dishes
  • Both warungs are on the Ubud walk-and-eat circuit along Jalan Raya Sanggingan and Sugriwa

Warung Etiquette: How to Eat Like a Local

Eating at a Balinese warung is a casual affair, but knowing a few local customs will enrich your experience and show respect for the culture. Ordering at a warung can work in several ways. At nasi campur warungs, walk up to the glass display case, point at the dishes that appeal to you, and the cook will assemble your plate on a bed of rice. At menu-based warungs, simply sit down and a server will come to you. Do not wait to be seated -- find an open table and make yourself comfortable. Eating with your right hand is traditional in Bali. Many locals eat nasi campur by mixing the rice and side dishes with their fingers, forming small balls that they pop into their mouths. You are welcome to use a fork and spoon (the standard utensils at warungs -- knives are rarely provided) if you prefer, and nobody will judge you. However, if you do eat with your hands, always use your right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean in Balinese culture. Water and drinks are ordered separately. Most warungs offer es teh (iced sweet tea, IDR 5,000-8,000), fresh juices, and bottled water. Some serve kopi Bali (Balinese coffee, IDR 5,000-10,000), which is unfiltered -- let the grounds settle before drinking. Payment is always at the end of the meal. Walk to the counter or cash register, state your table number or describe what you ate, and pay. Tipping is not expected at warungs, but leaving IDR 5,000-10,000 ($0.30-0.60 USD) is a kind gesture if the food and service were good. Most warungs are cash-only, so carry small bills.

💡 Saying 'enak sekali' (very delicious) to the cook after your meal will earn you the biggest smile in Bali. These two words show genuine appreciation for their craft.

  • Use your right hand if eating with your fingers -- the left hand is considered unclean in Balinese culture
  • Let your kopi Bali settle for 2-3 minutes before sipping to avoid a mouthful of coffee grounds
  • Tipping is not expected at warungs but IDR 5,000-10,000 is appreciated for great service
  • Learn a few phrases: 'enak sekali' (very delicious) and 'terima kasih' (thank you) go a long way

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a meal cost at an Ubud warung?
A typical warung meal in Ubud costs IDR 25,000-65,000 ($1.50-4 USD) per person. A basic nasi campur plate starts at IDR 25,000-35,000. Specialty dishes like Ibu Oka's babi guling special cost IDR 65,000, and Naughty Nuri's pork ribs are IDR 115,000. Including a drink, budget IDR 35,000-80,000 ($2.20-5 USD) per person. This makes warungs the best value dining in Ubud by far.
Are there vegetarian or vegan warungs in Ubud?
Yes, Ubud has several vegetarian-friendly warungs. Warung Sopa is entirely vegetarian with many vegan options (operating since 1998). Most traditional warungs also offer vegetarian nasi campur with tempeh, tofu, vegetables, and sambal. Ubud's health-conscious community means vegetarian and vegan eating is easier here than almost anywhere else in Bali. Simply ask for 'tanpa daging' (without meat) or 'vegetarian' and cooks will accommodate you.
What is the best time to visit warungs in Ubud?
The best time to visit warungs in Ubud is between 11:00 AM and 1:00 PM for lunch, when food is freshest and the full selection is available. Babi guling warungs like Ibu Oka open at 11:00 AM and often sell out by 2:00 PM. Evening warungs typically serve from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM. Avoid arriving after 2:00 PM for lunch or after 8:30 PM for dinner, as popular dishes may have run out.
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